even though I could get regular Prestone ELC or Fleetrite ELC locally. The company is Reit Lubrications, 15 Sylmar Rd. If you are on the south side of Philly I bought mine from the regional distributor. While it is down you should go ahead and update the STC fitting and Dummy plugs, as well as the HPOP reservoir screen. I wouldn't mess around with the egr cooler without doing the oil cooler because you are duplicating work. Keep in mind that if emissions laws change you can always take the delete off and reinstall the egr cooler and egr valve. If you are worried about the delete their egr cooler is first rate too. As a preventive measure if you want to replace the oem oil cooler with the Bulletproof cooler and have the money to do so it is a great mod for your truck. The Bulletproof oil cooler is the best cooler going for our trucks at this time. Even ARP head studs won't withstand the pressures generated by steam from too much water entering the cylinder. When that happens the coolant flashes creating steam and generating much higher than normal cylinder pressures. What stretches head bolts is coolant getting into the cylinders from ruptured egr coolers. Any good aftermarket tune writer goes to great lengths to make sure they keep the cylinder pressures down so you don't have problems. Have heater on set to hi while doing this to flush the heater core too. Make sure to run engine for 5 minutes between flushes to circulate the water good. Add 3.5 gallons of ELC concentrate and top off with distilled water. Put hose back, make sure block plug is tight. Flush 3 more times with distilled water untill it come out clean. Put 2 qts of VC-9 or 1 gallon of Restore+ cost less and fill with distilled water. Flush 2 times with distilled water or whatever it takes to come clear. Drive it for an 60-90 minutes then drain. Put in 1 gallon of Restore an top with distilled water. run for 5 minutes then drain as above.Fill and run 5 more minutes drain. Put thermostat housing back on without thermostat. Replace plug in block and put lower hose back on. Drain block from plug on drivers side of the block. Do the flush and then do the Delo ELC coolent concentrate you will be good, here is the flushĮLC is the coolant recommended and used by International for this engine.ĭrain coolant by removing lower radiator hose. :dunno:Why are you changing out your coolers that is normal running temps the oil will always run about 4*more than the coolent. I too would like to hear more on this but I'm not going to advocate this ems too risky to me for a 6.0L from a safety standpoint - I'm not doubting any claims just the application in a 6.0L as prudent. Hope this helps get a start for your answers. Motorcraft diesel engine coolant system iron cleaner VC9 It's oily too so many performance sports venues do not allow its use (or regular coolant either.only water at those sites). With Evans you wouldn't need a pressurized cooling system but I am not sure how you would eliminate the pressurization.maybe the system just doesn't pressurize because there is no water to liberate from the mixture into steam? That is probably it. The 6.0L like most vehicles uses a pressurized cooling system (16psi cap) to keep the coolant from boiling. While at least theoretically with no elements to produce debris it seems like a good concept, I'm not prepared to put a potentially volatile in a system sealed less fully than the fuel system. Since I've never used it I can't say definitively how it would perform in the oil cooler. While it is unlikely that your coolant will get to 1055 degrees (your engine block melts before this happens in all likelihood) if you have any coolant drip onto the exhaust manifold.you know right UNDERNEATH the coolant bottle?.it could catch fire because your exhaust manifold does get to 1055 degrees F from time to time. These are two components of concern in diesel engines especially with mixed metal construction.BUT WAIT. You may buy it through for.wait for it.$30.50 per you don't add water to this you have to buy SEVEN gallons for a system fill after a very thorough flush and sufficient ventilation to allow the system to DRY OUT - you don't want any water remaining in the system (difficult to achieve).Īs a coolant, Evans gets around the corrosive properties of water by eliminating water and since the propylene glycol has a higher viscosity than water, that addresses the issue of cavitation as well. No experience with Evans but here is what Evans Waterless NPG+ coolant is (NPG stands for Non-aqueous Propylene Glycol):ģ0% Propylene Glycol mixed with 70% Ethylene Glycol (regular coolant base)
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
Details
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |